Tuesday, April 30, 2013

A Wearble Wadder


I’m suffering from repeated brain farts today. So if this seems a bit disjointed…. You know why.

Anybody on Sew Much Talent? Well… For the March challenge folks were supposed to try a pattern from a company they have never sewn before. I chose Burda 7349. I have never truly been moved by a Burda pattern before. I see other folks sewing with them. I look at them as much as the other companies. They were just never my taste; coupled with the fact that they rarely go on sale makes them unattractive to me.

I like linen. Who doesn’t? Summer is linen season. Last summer I made a tangerine jacket that I have been getting some good wear out of. But I am ashamed to take it off because of the naked raw and unraveling seams. I neither lined it nor did anything to finish it off. Looks nice outside but the inside is horrible. This year, my linen plan was to either learn how to finish it off or make things that you wouldn’t see the inside of. So that is what I attempted to do with this jacket. I used French seams to join the upper and lower parts of the jacket. The problem is… I didn’t make them well. They leak a bit. It’s not super noticeable because of the print. I’m not surprised since this is my 1st attempt. I also covered some of the exposed seam on the inside with bias tape. I am not ashamed to take this jacket off. But I should be.

I liked the pattern, (Burda 7349) actually for the skirt. But I didn’t make the skirt. I made the jacket. Now this is where I screwed up. I have read that Burda does not do seam allowances. I didn’t quite understand what that meant. I don’t perceive seam allowances so I didn’t get what this meant even after cutting the pattern. I don’t know why I didn’t do a muslin for that reason alone. But I didn’t. Instead, I cut into $12/yard linen that the 7 bought for me. SMDH…. And guess what? It didn’t fit when I got done. The sleeves were too tight and the bodice sides acted like they were mad at each other and REFUSED to come together over Cocoa and Puff. Luckily there was enough left over from my 3.25 yd purchase to make a pencil skirt that I have worn the hell out of already. I had 2 choices: (1) fix the jacket or (2) take it apart and make something else. I just couldn’t waste fabric like that. And though the linen skirt was nice, it wasn’t worth $36+tax. I decided to persevere even though I picked out a top jic….

Problem #1: There was a 6” gap in the front.
I opened the side seams and put in a 4” insert on both sides.

Problem #2: The sleeves were too tight from the shoulder through the bicep
I cut the insert to have an additional 5” triangle at the top of it. I’m certain there is a word for it, but I don’t know one.

So that’s how I got the jacket to fit. Which I knew would work. I learned to sew because I had to accommodate the girls. Because I’m short, I could always take length off a garment for fabric. That was an old trick. Plus the fabric is printed. Printed fabric hides a multitude of flaws. That’s one of the reasons I chose it.

I also ironed small strips of interfacing along the periphery of the jacket and the sleeve opening. I rolled them twice before sewing them down. I am hoping that that will keep the fraying down to a minimum. So… what do you think?

I do not know how to smile for these pics....

Pattern Description: Jacket with angled front section seams and slightly flared, pointed hemline.

Pattern Sizing: 8-20 (I cut a 20)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. There are elbow darts. WTH is an elbow dart for? I googled it and got no clarity!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The concept of no seam allowance still makes no sense to me….

Fabric Used: printed linen

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I hade to open up the sleeves and sides

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No and no. Anybody want it? I’ll send it to you. Be mindful it’s cut

Conclusion: I don’t’ like it. But I will wear it. Does that make sense? I like this jacket enough to wear it now that it’s finished, but I could have made something similar and equally as satisfying out of other patterns I already own.



MAD14kt said...

I will take it :)

Anonymous said...

oh lord, this had me cracking up! What with all the palarva, the jacket still looks good. You go girl!